Chapter 12: PJay and His Separation Anxiety

PJay is my prince sheltie. lol He was not a rescue because I was not aware of rescues and the issues of dog breeding until after I had PJay for a year. What also interested me to foster dogs in the first place was because he was so spoiled as well. I figured fostering would benefit us both.

3 months old when we first got him

It all started off with a newspaper ad and 40 minutes drive to a house with a kind family and 3 shelties. As I entered the door of the home, I saw daddy sheltie walking to the door and behind him was the most adorable puppy I had to get. 9 years later PJay and I are inseparable and he's a great role model for all our fosters.

I got PJay when I was younger and it was a more hectic time in my life. I have always given PJay total credit that I was so lucky I got a smart puppy or this all would've been a disaster.

He picked up on commands so quickly. I had him trained to sit, stay, lay down and come before he was 9 months old. BUT ONE THING that I'll never forget was between 6 and 9 months, he had super bad separation anxiety. Truthfully I could not tell you to this day why he ever had it, but I was in one of the most stressful times in my life when I had him as a puppy.

He didn't start off this way. But right around 6 months I moved in with my 2 friends and all a sudden my friend would call me confirming I had let him outside before I left. We all had dogs so before I went to work each afternoon, I'd let all 3 dogs out to poop and pee, then back in the house. My friend knew this but after some time he noticed PJay would poop in the house. I was mortified, naturally, so I apologized. Bless my friend's heart because he never gave me grief and took care of my cat and PJay at the time when I was gone to work.

We tried couple more days and thought maybe he just had a puppy moment and wasn't fully trained, but it kept happening. Thankfully I worked in an office where I parked right in front of my office AND it was September so,cool autumn nights. I ventured to take PJay with me to work and crack some windows and see how he does. I had 2 breaks each night and I'd take him out of the car to give him a stretch, potty break and some snack or water if he wanted.

When it got cooler and his adult coat hadn't come in,
I bought him a winter coat to stay cozy

It was perfect, when I was in the office, he'd curl up in the blanket in the passenger seat and pass out (because that's how I found him walking up to the car) and he never chewed up or made a mess in the car. So I knew he was potty trained, but was having trouble when I'd leave him.

Soon after I moved back home and found my own place during the summer. I was quite reluctant to take PJay with me to work on hot summer days so I had to find a new way. But I had hoped from previous experience he'd understand I'd always come home to him. So it went, my first day of work at the new job I left him at home.

Came home? Found no mess. Every other trip I'd take, I'd take him along. Groceries, quick lunches, errands, PJay came with. But those times I DID leave him home he barked so much, I worried about neighbors. Then I tried something new...I bought a gate and gated him in his own area so he couldn't run all the way up to the door and watch me walk out. Then I would give him his favorite treat and toss it in the bedroom for him to chew and run out of the door before he could see me. And there it was....no barking?!

The best thing about PJay is, I can string commands together and once we get a routine, I can name it something else. So I would leave extra times in the mornings so that I could train him to stay and walk away. At the beginning I'd tell him to stay and give him a treat. Then I would tell him to stay and walk out the door, then open the door and if I found he hadn't say in the bedroom, I'd walk him back in the bedroom. FINALLY, that process became "go" and pointing to the bedroom when I had shoes on. (He knew I was leaving)

Nowadays, we find they've nested in our bed no matter how pretty we make the bed in the morning. They think it's their day bed.

Today it's a routine to gate the dogs away from the main door, toss a chew (which also brushes their teeth after their morning meal, how perfect is that!) Then scoot out the door so they associate me leaving with a treat. I rarely hear barking anymore, even when I forget the treat sometimes before I leave (or I make multiple trips). I can't keep giving treats every time or I'd have obese dogs.

Chapter 11: Floyd! Texas! I mean Taz! Come back!!!!

I'm going to prelude this chapter by saying that a difficult thing we have with rescues will be, they come nameless. So when they run away, you're just never quite sure how to get them to come to you, so you should never lose them right? Wrong, it happens.

Taz

Taz is one of those dogs with a sad back story. People saw him standing at the same street corner every day and wondered why. People tried to help him but he would run away, but he'd always come back to the same corner. Our best guess is that's where his owners dropped him off and drove away. (Sad I know!)

Before I picked him up I was told he was a Petit Bassett Griffith Vendeen. NEVER heard of this breed before...but I'm always up for learning about a new breed.

When we picked him up at the transport, we were told someone heard him being called Floyd. The rescue named him Texas for paperwork, then we thought it was weird (because he wasn't from Texas), and we shortened it to Taz. We brought him home and gave him a bath and off we went. I spoke with my husband and agreed we would never have him off leash and vigilantly watch him because we knew he was a definite "runner". The sad thing is, once he gets away WE knew he'd never stop running because he'll have to run pretty far to get back to Alabama, but HE didn't know that. (Even more sad! What love a dog can give.)

So that night my husband went to work and I was going to let the dogs out one more time before going to bed. I was fighting with the collar so I just gave up and looped the leash around Taz's neck and took him outside (a lesson I will never forget). Everything was going great, and then he loosened his leash and away he went.

Of all the directions to run, he ran toward a very busy road (thank goodness it was late at night), however my heart just about fell out of my chest. I had PJay and flip flops and off I went running. PJay was having a blast checking on me to make sure I was catching up....I was not, but trying hard (NOT a runner!) As I went flailing my arms yelling "Floyd! Texas! Taz! Come here boy!" Nothing worked, he stopped for a moment to smell some flower, I got a bit closer and he was off again.

As I was losing stride a police squad car pulled up alongside and asked if I needed help. So I proceeded quickly to tell my story and see if she could help. The officer asked and pointed to PJay and I said "oh he's fine. He's not the one I'm worried about." As I saw the officer's car disappear at the top of the hill, I began to really worry. I kept running again up the hill and as I reached the top, I saw a car with brake lights on in the middle of the road...my heart stopped and all I thought was "this was it. I have failed and lost this pup forever all because I didn't want to fight with a stupid collar. What have I done?!"

As I began to run downhill, I saw the driver get out and then I saw a hint of a tail and I screamed, "stop him! Please grab him if you can!" I lost a flip flop and didnt' care, I was elated to see a full body, tail wagging, and driver grabbed his side petting him to keep him close by. Thank the merciful heavens!!

I grabbed him, thanked the driver over and over. Then picked up hefty chubby Taz (his breed did not play in my favor because he was short, wide and long, solid = heavy). Thankfully after walking all the way uphill, the police officer pulled up and asked if I needed a ride. I kindly accepted and as I got into the back of the squad car, I was met with a bit of reality that I'd never sat in the back of a cop car before. The back seat wasn't cushy, there was a mold perfect fit for arms behind the body cuffed. Weird. As we reach the apartment, I go to open the door and I realize I'm locked out. A brief moment of fear, but the officer opened the door and wished me luck and I thought (well duh, criminals can't just open the back door and run away). lol

Another tale of luck and the wonderful help of loving people.

Chapter 10: Scruffy, The One that Ran Away

I don't claim to be perfect because I know every dog is different. I merely share what I've learned from the wonderful bunch of pups who have challenged us and these two gave us a run for our money. lol.

Scruffy
He was otherwise perfect the day we picked him up. He snuggled, ate, potty trained and just a slight bit of shyness which we remedied with lots of affection and treats. Most times when we take in a shy foster we are so blessed to have a dog of our own who we can show our foster, through our own dog, how much love we can offer and that it's safe to like us.

One Saturday my husband and I decided to go to Six Flags and my dad said he would be happy to watch the pups. So we bring PJay and Scruffy and I let him know about Scruffy's shyness and being patient with him. My parents have a husky who is quite on the rambunctious side and not very socialized so other dogs are afraid or annoyed by the husky. But they essentially all get along.

So we left and not an hour goes by when my brother texts me, "your dog is gone." And immediately I knew it wasn't PJay. So I call my dad and he said Scruffy was so scared when he let him out, he just left him on the long lead so Scruffy would go potty. Then as my dad proceeded to pull the lead closer and closer with Scruffy pulling away, he slipped out of his collar and bolted. (TIP: this is why I love Martingale collars, granted my dad should've never kept pulling, as obvious that the dog was terrified). But he said not to worry they'll go look for him. I suggested bringing PJay because they're friends so maybe Scruffy will run out to play.

Not 15 minutes go by and my brother said "I took both the dogs and no Scruffy". Well of course, the husky went, and my brother didn't listen. What else is new? At this point bless my husband's heart, he says "honey, I know you're worried and there's no way you're going to have fun here knowing Scruffy is gone. Let's go home." On the drive home I called local police and animal control to describe Scruffy so he wouldn't be lost in limbo if he got picked up.

Before I even get to my parents, I had my husband drop me off several blocks from their house. I walked briskly and frantic yelling as excited and happy for Scruffy hoping he'd run out toward me. My husband was going to grab PJay to walk around the block. I was just about back to my parents house when I lost hope and Scruffy comes running out from behind. He was butt up, front paws down in play mode, tongue out, tail wagging saying to me "where ya been?"

He did not know how much trouble he was in but I couldn't be mad. I called him over and hugged him so hard saying "you have NO idea you aren't suppose to be out here." Lol. And I proceeded to carry him all the way home. I was so lucky, SO lucky! Couple more blocks north and it was a very very busy main road. And it took an hour to drive home so he could've ran so far.

Chapter 9: It Takes A Village

In between moves at some point in our lives I asked the rescue whether I could assist in another way. This was when I briefly got involved in transports. 

I'd like to dedicate this post to those individuals who have dedicated their time, effort, love and money to bring all our dogs to find their "furever" homes. All that driving, all those leashes and crates and dog walking in chaos. If not for their kind hearts, this would never work. I was only so lucky to meet a few who I met at a local drop off, but when I first got that chain of sign up emails, it was just jaw dropping. In the midst of all the crazy organization, everyone always had time to cuddle and take pictures to show everyone else along the way, waiting for their transport how the dogs were holding up. There were a range of big to small, young to old, healthy to ill, frighten and the brave. Multiple rescues involved with multiple dropoff and much paperwork.

It's amazing what a village can accomplish!!

Always cuddle time in between transports and water and potty breaks

Thanks to my dad donating his minivan on weekends so I could do this

Exhausted by the end all napping in the sun

Debuting my husband who was always involved and still married me after this madness

Beginning of socialization

From cowering scared in a crate to just wanting to lay on your lap

Picked out her own spot to lay

Wondering why it's so cold, coming from Alabama.

Passed out on my lap!

The watering hole.

All this affection!

''Hi. How are you? Do you know what's going on?"

"Just happy to be here. Looking for a loving home. Is that you?"

Chapter 8: PUPPY Mode, How to Deal

My husband was quite spoiled because when he met my PJay, he was already 9 months old and quite well trained. So when it came to coming home with Brady, now adopted and renamed Riley, he wasn't sure how to change to puppy mode. But he was cute as ever and we accomplished all our goals before he was adopted!

Just the same, 5 commands to teach all puppies:

1.  Sit
2. Down
3. Stay
4. Come
5. No and/or Leave it

 There are always many ways to accomplish a good thing and each pup is an individual. But certain themes should be the same when raisin a puppy.

• Be consistent. Be patient. My first rule with any puppy or dog is to pick a name and begin the first second you can and repeat until he/she gets it. No "sweetie", "darling", "baby", "puppy". How do you begin training if your dog think it has 4 names?
• If training, (especially with a family of multiple people) , remember to agree on one command for the same task. Your husband can't "get it", if your daughter says "fetch". Those are 2 different things. It's not fair to the dog if they don't get it and you get frustrated.
• Establish an eating and potty schedule
• Have a family meeting prior to any of this and establish things like:
• where does the doggy bed go?
• where do we feed the puppy?
• can puppy sleep on the bed? jump on the couch?
• what method do we discipline with?
• Puppies can be weaned from their mother at 7 weeks. Probably safest to pick up at 8 or 9 weeks old. If person giving or selling you puppy says otherwise, be leery!
• Always establish your pup with a vet as soon as you can. Initial appointments should be to check for congenital diseases, worms, and vaccinations.

  

  Brady playing with his teething rings
• Vaccinations should begin at 6 to 7 weeks. Vets will give parvo vaccine at 5 weeks if at high risk.
• YES puppies have their own nutritional need and need to be fed puppy food. Read or ask for directions how much depending on breed.
• Keep them entertained or they chew and that's not their fault. Toys, teething chews, bully sticks, crating or gating to an area where they can't chew up things you care about
• SOCIALIZE YOUR PUPPY. Bring them around people and other dogs if vaccinated. 
• Lots of mouthplay is bonding
• Touch their paws, mouth and teeth, tummy, and rump to tail to get them used to these touches so they are not scared or aggressive at the vet or grooming

• Introduce them to things and noises that ate normal to avoid developing fears
• Doors opening and closing

  

  Ear cleaning is a term of endearment
• Stairs
• Vacuums
• Leashes, chains, collars 
• Anything that makes loud noises (coffee machine, starting the shower, etc)

• Potty training...
• Toilet them every 2 to 4 hours until you figure their bladder capacity.
• If you are gone 8 hours, consider teaching them to pee on a mat or puppy pad AND outside. 
• If they have accidents anywhere other than designated, take the, straight outside and remind them where they are suppose to go
• They probably won't go if they've just gone, but do it anyway...consistency
• If they go where they should LOTS OF PRAISE!!!
• At around age 1 they should be able to hold a good 8 hours with maybe an accident here or there. Still praise on those good days. 
• If you have the luxury, you can always send them to daycare, or come home midday to toilet them. Reality is most of us work, so toilet when you can. 
• Truly don't go longer than 8 hours. If so, and you come home to an accident, toilet the, and praise if they go outside. But disciplining them for your long travel is mean and wrong. 

GOOD LUCK!!

Chapter 7: The Tale of Itchy Scratchy Barney

1st night, you can see his neck was still bald

Barney was a pup "only a mother could love" and boy did we love him and so does his new family.

Most of the time we don't know what happen to them, they are found, surrendered, but SOMETIMES we find out.

Barney was found tied to a telephone pole in Alabama. He had mange, lost practically all his teeth, ticks and fleas and was miserably bald.

When we got him we were told he had hot spots, what's left of his teeth, free of mange but now has a skin allergy for the rest of his life. BUT a lot of his fur had grown back and his HUGE underbite was cute (to me).

When I got home, boy did I get it from my husband. He thought Barney looked like a little gremlin, he was allergic to the allergic dog and because of his allergies he wasn't the best smelling pup either. On top of that I told him that I had to give him a couple supplements to strengthen his body couple times a day, a hot spot spray for his itchy moments, ear drops, then he had some sedating pills because he was so anxious he was aggressive. And we were told to go "organic" because his allergies didn't allow for him to be on anything but grain free and "real" treats.

Well.....I ditched those sedatives straight away. I'd rather deal with a fussy dog than a drugged one. We had to keep his collar loose and really took it off most of the time until it got better because anything around his neck would rub his neck raw. He didn't get along with our dog because he didn't get along with anyone. He was 6 and acted like an "old and ornery" man. LOL. He itched all the time and it made his bald spots have this oily coating and he'd have this body odor. But Barney never missed a beat, he loved his ball and to play with it.

Thankfully he's tiny because breaking up fights were simple. He had big dog syndrome, of course. And after some research and talking with our vet we ended up switching all our dogs and cat to grain free and "organic" treats, (bully sticks, chicken treats, peanut butter). What was even better was since he was allergic to all chemicals which aggrevated his skin, I made his collar into a tick and flea collar by putting drops of lavender, tea tree oil and citronella essential oils. It was the best switch I ever made for the health of my animals. :)

It was sad watching Barney go outside because insects are such opportunistic buggers. Since Barney was weak and ill, there would always be swarms of gnats and bugs swarming him so I was even more worried about ticks and heartworm disease. Where our Sheltie didn't have one bug near him because he was healthy as an ox running around like the happiest thing.

THEN there was this itching thing. I didn't want to use all these "chemical" stuff given to me and let his skin naturally heal, but his neck and collar and that darn back paw just got the best of me. I tried painters tape and baby socks, he chewed that off. I tried infant booties, he kicked those off. AND THEN I bought the onesie. YUP, I did. I measured his size and bought a similar onesie (6 month I believe) and since he was stretching them out I bought a set and would buy more as he stretched them out.

Now mind you I didn't know we were going to have him as long as we did, 9 months. So I went through about  5 or 6 onesies. All worth it because his fur grew back and he was also getting better with the diet and supplements. (We could tell by his smell and less gnats swarming him).

He didn't liked it at first, but then he got used to it and didn't care. It was okay too because it was winter so the onesie was a nice jacket. And my husband eventually gave in to his underbite charm and he just looked too cute in those onesies.  Barney even started learning tricks like sit and up and lay down.

The night that broke my heart.....I was dead asleep and then 2am in the morning I heard noises. I figured out it was coming from the bathroom. So I went for a look, Barney had managed to hop into our bathtub (which was too tall for him to jump unless out of desperation) and laying on his tummy sprawled and softly whining when he saw me. I picked him up and his onesie was too stretched out so he itched his neck so raw there was blood and the smell was a slight foul. He laid in the tub to cool his skin down. I was beside myself, but I cleaned him up and grabbed some aloe gel I had just to sooth the skin and keep it cool. I laid him next to me in bed in my arms laying on his back. Every 30 seconds or so he'd try to reach up and scratch and I'd gently keep his foot from reaching his neck. That was a LONG night and a VERY tired morning for work.

The other incident we had was that he was very protective of his paws. So at one point I finally insisted we cut his nails. Well by the time I wanted to do that, one was too late and had cracked and broke at the cuticle. My husband helped me hold his neck and head because he was writhing in pain. It was so difficult emotionally for me because he was just screaming and screaming (our neighbors probably thought we were trying to kill him)! I had to get my nail cutter around this long nail all the way off to past the cuticle and snap. I had flour and hydrogen peroxide,cotton balls, qtips, gauze ready to clean and stop the bleeding. I was prepared for the worst! It took a few times to get around the nail (which was painful) and couple times he'd break free of my husband's hold and try to bite. BUT as soon as he saw my hand he never bit down and just hesitantly retracted his jaws. It was even more sad for me because at that moment I knew he loved me enough not to bite me even though he was in so much pain. So finally we got it, cleaned it up, packed it with flour to stop the bleeding. AND YOU KNOW WHAT? That darn nail grew back perfectly. I thought it was never coming back as deep as we had to cut it.

Barney with neck hair back and pawing for a treat

After 9 months, we started to get applications for him. The winter slows down a bit because nobody wants to adopt during the winter to have to potty train and take the dog outside. LOL. I had to turn down 2 families because they were more interested with hopping him up on meds for his allergies than be thoughtful. By no means did I believe anyone would be as crazy as me buying infant clothing, however, I had an expectation. So finally a family came, mom, dad, and 2 boys. Mom was allergic to dogs, but her sons wanted a dog...so. Mom was so diligent to ask about the supplements and where to buy them and what Barney's regimen was. By the end of our interview the eldest boy was playing fetch and the youngest was rolling on the floor with Barney. IT WAS MEANT TO BE. Months later we receive an email from the family saying how wonderful he was doing. It was perfect and I didn't regret being picky for Barney because he deserved it. I think he was the only other foster I cried when he left because he was such a piece of work! LOL

Although he was 6 years old, his family said he never missed a beat and he was just like a puppy. He was definitely one that made a huge 360 with the right amount of care, love, patience and time. :)

Chapter 6: How to Address the Small but Still Frustrating Behaviors

Per my list of behaviors, here are ways I've handled the rest of the odd behaviors that will happen when you have a shy or fearful dog.

The key is to always be attentive of your dog if they are having a hard time so you can always find out what is bothering them to begin with.

• Jittery/jumpy
• If you catch them jumping to a new noise, stop and comfort them, "it's okay."
• If their reaction wasn't out of this world, squat down or get close to them and make the noise again while comforting them, holding them, petting them (positive association to negative thing)
• Start showing them things they get jumpy with and let them sniff it. Hand it to them gently and let their nose come to your object (curiosity is good)
• DON'T FORCE IT, if they are truly scared, DON'T drag them to the noise or object (that will only make things worse!!!)
• After they are jumpy always call them over and pet them or hug them letting them know you are there for them
• Darting eyes
• If something catches their eye and it makes them fearful, let them know it's okay
• With time they will learn they can be less scared because you're here to protect them now and they don't need to be scared 
  
• Cornering/hiding
• If this is a new dog, it's okay to let them hide and adjust to their surrounds for the first couple days
• I would start coaxing them out of the corner in a weeks time because it's not good behavior to cower in a corner the rest of their lives either. They just have to be shown it's okay to lay out in the open because they are safe now.
• Coax with treats if necessary or if they come when called, try that.
• Get them used to all areas of your home (gate off living spaces so they can get used to them one at a time)
• Bring a bed or toy that comforts them into whatever room you are in (positive association/distraction)
• If the dog is not aggressive, once you feel comfortable and they don't fight TOO much, drag them out of that corner and move them into an open space (the couch, next to the couch, up to bed, etc)
• Eventually they'll learn they can be in space where they are invited and not have to be scared anymore. Most likely it will end up being where ever in your arms snuggled next to you. :)
  
• Whining
•  1st always rule out pain, scratches, cuts, bruises, broken bones, etc. 
• Whining can be out of general anxiety. All you can do is comfort with petting, "it's okay" and give it time 
• Our Joey whines because he's terrified of new objects he's not familiar with. This could be down to a door left open or a vacuum we haven't put away in the middle of the hallway - REMOVE the thing that's stressing the dog out
• If we can't remove it, like a new gate we installed, I usually get down on the floor with some treats and treat him nearby the "new thing" and day after day he'll get closer and closer until it's not so new anymore
• Whining out of fear of you may be followed by submissive peeing. Watch out for this when the dog is on your bed our couch....things hard to launder. If this happens try not to confront the dog when they're on these surfaces, keep a distance when trying to get their attention (sometimes it's inevitable...it's not the end of the world)
• Anxiety of not getting enough attention or affection, if this is a new dog to you give them all the loving to let them know it's a thing now! :)
• Once this gets old, I don't believe all dogs need to be pet 24/7 every second ... this can turn into separation anxiety (a whole other headache, PJay had it as a puppy)
• You will have to ignore the whining or teach the dog to calm or lay down. 
• Once the dog is in a calm state or laid down, THEN pet the dog letting them know it's a reward and not a constant thing they have to scratch, paw, and lick to fight for
• Eventually they'll learn to self sooth and know when enough is enough
• My philosophy: dogs can be loved AND not be rude simultaneously. No guest likes dogs to jump, lick and overwhelm them upon entering your home.
• Separation Anxiety
• Gate or crate them in an area where they cannot actually see you leave the apartment or house through the main door.
• Give them a treat that will keep them occupied and not see or notice you leave (this helps them associate you leaving with something positive like a treat)
  
• Bring them along to short car trips here and there (ie short grocery runs).
• If you are able, take short trips and slowly increase intervals so they are eased into your absence. 
• Video tape what they do in the home and see if there is something of comfort you can use to calm them or make them content. Record your progress. 
• Submissive peeing
• You cannot scold them after this, IN FACT, comfort them letting them know it's okay (they are doing this because they are terrified people, yelling doesn't do anything)
• Eventually this will stop I promise, until the next new person comes along to meet your dog. But it will stop with you. Sometimes once they stop they stop altogether. (My parents' husky always submissively peed when he got excited everytime my husband would visit though....)
• Don't clean up the mess in front of the dog, then they learn it's okay to pee where ever, you'll just clean it up.
• Bathroom accidents
• This should not be a surprise if you have a new shy dog. They are not used to their new surroundings so may not go potty in the new yard
• As gentle as you can, when they have an accident, NO SCOLDING, but put a leash on and walk them outside and say "outside" and let them sniff around. 
• You have to consistently, just like a puppy, do this EVERY time they have an accident so they get it
• Refusal to walk on leash
• When they lock down on the floor or yard and refuse to move....that's a wrap
• If it's new, you may as well pick them up and bring them home
• I think it stems from a or several negative experience with the leash (being dragged to be beat, dragged to be bred, who knows?!) 
• Keep he leash close by, or keep the leash on the dog so they become unaware or not scared of the leash
• NEVER LEAVE LEASH ATTACHED IF YOU ARE LEAVING YOUR HOME AND YOUR DOG ALONE (CHOKING HAZARD)
• Always watch your dog nearby because the leash can get caught and choke or hurt them
• Once they get familiar with the experience, they'll let you softly tug on the leash to move
  
  them along (NEVER tug til they drag across the floor or cough)
• Start small, in your living room, then the yard, then a park. Before long it'll be a short walk....unless they plant down mid walk...in that case I hope it's not a heavy dog. lol
• Walking along walls and fences
• This is a protective mechanism. If they put one side against a hard surface, they only have to worry about one other direction. Smart huh?
• If this is a new dog, allow this to happen until they are familiar with their surroundings
• Once they are comfortable, you can softly tug on the leash and let them know open spaces are okay too, and safe above all else

Chapter 5: How to Address Food Aggression

** Do not ever allow young children (8 and under) alone with dogs and food if they have previous behavior of food aggression. 

This is never a good thing or cute or whatever excuse you want to make of it. Whether you only have one dog or no children, make this stop. It turns into other aggression issues you will not want.

Establishing chain of command is HUGE. If you have children, have the children (under supervision) scoop the dog food into the dog bowl to create that alpha bond with the dog(s) too.

Take the steps below with food (kibble or wet food), treats, bones, etc...

Steps to take:

1. When you feed them, make them pause before rushing to the bowl and inhaling the food (this will teach patience and remaining calm instead of excitement which can become aggression fast)
2. If they growl, immediately take away the bowl, (if it's not safe, softly kick the bowl away and grab it away). Put it up on the counter where they can see it but not reach it
3. Tell them "no" or "naughty" or whatever command you want to associate with inappropriate behavior
4. Walk away from dog and food (making sure they can't get it) for 1 to 5 minutes
5. Come back and give him food again, make him pause a bit before rushing into bowl
6. This time, stand close by ALWAYS MAKE SURE YOU CAN SEE HIS MOUTH, LOOK FOR SNARLING, showing teeth, etc
7. If they growl again, repeat steps 2 - 5 
8. If it's not a daily serving off food and the 1-5 minute intervals aren't working, take away treat, bone or toy indefinitely or for one hour or the next day.

Once you've discovered food aggression, here's things you can do:

1.  Sit nearby when they eat, start at arms length and scoot in closer and closer til you're next to them. IF at any point they start growling.....repeat above steps
2. Instead of feeding them with a bowl, put food into your hand and hand feed them. Create a positive bond (don't bite the hand that feeds you type understanding)
3. If you feel it's safe enough, while they're eating stick your finger or hand in their bowl at the edge just to practice that you can interrupt at any time and they shouldn't be scared or threatened.

If you have a dog who has been food aggression, it's best to stay away from buying treats that will last a long time because you are setting them up for failure. Big juicy bones are hard because they take forever to finish and they can take it into a private space and it's hard NOT to guard a bone, it's very primitive.

Chapter 4: How to address the dog that runs away

WARNING any new dog or dog you're newly interacting (babysitting) with should ALWAYS be on a leash. Even if the owners have the dogs trained off leash, until you know it's safe for you, always have a leash. Every dog/human relationship can be different

A dog may run away because of the following some or all of the below:

1. They came from an abusive home
2. They were wild and didn't have much human interaction 
3. They have NO idea who you are and have no reason to trust you
4. They have been captured before and had bad experience
5. They think you're chasing them (that's SO frustrating...when they think it's fun)

When they come back to you, NEVER scold them, ONLY encourage and shower them with treats or hugs because yelling at them at this point won't teach them anything but being scared for coming back. (That's probably why they run away to begin with)

Preventative steps:

1. FENCES don't always hold dogs. Unless you have a 6 foot fence, they WILL scale it and get away, especially with a running start momentum outside (above is our 9 lb foster Riesling who scaled a gate we thought was impossible!!)
2. Know where your dog is AT ALL TIMES (even going from kitchen to living room) Especially room near the door of your home
3. Always have a dog tag with your phone number for people to call
4. Martingale collars (they work wonderfully to tighten up when dogs pull on leashes so they don't slip away)
• Please be VERY careful with martingale collars, there's the adjuster and the clip, make sure those are smoothed out after placement and you can fit TWO fingers between collar and dogs neck.
5. Always make sure main doors are shut (WATCH those screen doors! One pounce and it's goodbye pooch)
6. Always leash the dog when the door is still closed
7. NEVER underestimate the speed and sneakiness of the dog (they will ALWAYS be faster than you)
8. Teach against impulse ... even with the leash on, pause a moment when the door is open before walking out so they learn they don't need to bolt to get outside
9. Teaching the "come" command.  
10. Lots of positive reinforcement for short or long distance returns when they come back

What to do when they run away:

1. If there is a favorite something (treat, toy, car ride) bring it and try to let him or her see it
2. If there was a previous method that worked try it first (let's face it, it may not be the first or the last time)
3. If your dog likes car rides, try opening up the car door in the garage or wherever it's parked, they MAY jump in. IF the dog has already run off, drive the car SLOWLY, SLOWLY and see if he'll jump in. (Always watch traffic and don't drive toward a busier area for BOTH your sake)
4. CALM DOWN, don't ever run up and attack the dog, that has NEVER worked. Even you'd be scared.
5. Slowly walk toward, get LOW to the ground in a squat (welcoming and inviting), lightly clapping hands with "come here"
6. ALWAYS have a happy high pitched encouraging tone, no yelling. "Good boy/girl", "let's go home", "come here" whatever makes them happy
7. GRAB a pair of comfy slip on shoes, it may be a long haul, GRAB a jacket if it's fall or winter (jammies are never warm at night)
8. If there is a 2nd person, try to get them into yards or spaces with fence or corners so you can flank the dog
9. I've heard this or read this....run the opposite direction for dogs that like to chase (this has never worked for me....but hey whatever works right?)
10. If they've TRULY gotten away --- call the local police NON emergency line, animal control, notify neighbors friends, post on facebook if you have an account

Chapter 3: How to Address Biting and Snarling

1.  If you have a child, it is VERY IMPORTANT to always supervise when a dog is present. Dogs are animals and can always be unpredictable, there is always human accountability when a dog bites

2.  Children NOT old enough to understand (3 and under) may be taught no when walking up to a dog head on, or touching or pulling a dog roughly

3.  Children old enough to understand (4 and up) may be taught to always ask before petting a dog. Always left the dog sniff their hand first. NEVER approach a dog head on (do it from his side, BUT also where it can see the child and not from behind) 

4.  IF BITTEN (child or adult) please go to the nearest urgent care or emergency department because dogs do have different bacteria than us and bites can cause infection and may cause deeper damage than anticipated. Please consult physician advice for care. 

If a dog growls or snarls, realistically you should just take a step back and give him or her their space. IF you truly feel comfortable and have the confidence that the dog is not TRULY aggressive and just fearful, then you may try the techniques below to address this issue.

IF your dog snarls, growls or tries to bite when you are nearby or when guarding food or toys here are some things to be proactive:

• Establish who alpha is. (aggression may stem from your dog not sure if he/she can trust you, or not be aware who alpha is so they may try to claim alpha) 

• When letting dog outside - make them sit and stay while you open the door and pause, walk out first, or teach a "release"command when YOU say they can go
• Make them sit and hold before running to their food dish (you can also have a "release" command when YOU say they can eat)
• If you have multiple pets, establish dominance in the order you want. I have 2 dogs, one foster dog and a cat. I made our cat (Splint) the 2nd in line because he was most vulnerable in size and teeth size (lol) so if the dogs respect the cat, he would be safe. Then our PJ (eldest),  Joey (adopted foster), and lastly foster dog. 
• We always feed, greet, and whatever action that needs individual address in this order Splint, PJ, Joey and foster dog. (establish a chain of command)
• IF YOU HAVE CHILDREN: put your children into the chain! When you come home and the dogs run to you at the door, keep walking and ignore them until you've greet your children, THEN the dogs. 
• Have your children feed the dogs to create that bond that YOUR CHILD are the alpha providing food for the dogs

1. When playing with toys, the second they thrash the toy left and right (same gesture if they were killing pray) have a command to stop this behavior like a simple "no." This discourages aggressive behavior and encourages play, but not "kill"
2. If there is a special toy or item the dog guards aggressively, you can CAREFULLY try to take the toy away (or replace with another toy) and set it where they cannot reach. This will let them know aggression will not be tolerated and when they are good,then they will be rewarded
3. Once a toy/treat gets taken away, wait 5 to 10 minutes and then give it back to the dog. Then proceed to walk near the dog when it is playing, if the growling continues take the toy away again. ** Repeat this in small intervals and perhaps daily until the dog gets it 
4. Don't let a dog take a toy or food away in their own secret "corner" because it allows them to make this area "theirs" to guard which may enable aggressive behavior
5. If there are things they are especially protective about, certain bones or toys, just avoid buying them to create scenarios for aggression
6. When teaching toy handling or fetch, practice reaching into dogs mouth to get toy with command if necessary "let go", "drop it", and most importantly positively reward when they DO let it go! "Good job!" "Good boy/girl!" lots of petting, treats, or hugs and kisses.
7. When a dog gets overly excited don't encourage by more excitement. Ignore until they are calm before petting or rewarding. Excitement can turn into aggression quickly if not trained to see he signs.

** ONLY adults should attempt this and even adults should be VERY careful when attempting.

 Can you think of anything else or other suggestions? Please comment!

Chapter 2: What Helps Shy Dogs??

There are many approaches to shy dogs I'm sure. I developed my way because the reality of having a foster dog is not knowing how long you'll have them so I try to find the safest, productive but most loving way to move the dog along behaviorally so they can fit into a home easier.

Let's face it, most people looking for dogs aren't looking for a handful. They're looking for a companion who will come when called and cuddle and gives you kisses. Not one that will pee every time you walk up to it, or run off every chance they get so you lose sleep about it.

However, I have found that shy dogs are the most loving dogs just looking for that someone they can devote every second and ounce of love to. And at some point someone or thing stripped that from them.

The first couple of days or the first week I let them do their thing to figure out who they are:

• basic functions: will they eat? drink? go potty?
• what makes them comfortable: a bed that hugs their body? a corner? another dog? (puppy mill dogs will love being around other dogs but super shy around humans)
• Is there any aggressive tendencies? 
• When you tug on the leash, do they resist and growl?
• When you walk up to their food do they growl? (food aggression refer to Chapter 5)
• When you walk near the dog and it's back to a wall or corner does it grit it's teeth and growl?
• Knowing what causes aggression keeps everyone safe until the fear can be calmed
• Who they get along with?

• Men, women, children (careful with this one if aggression shown)
• other dogs
• cats or other small animals
• Can they walk on a leash?
• If on a super long leash, do they walk alongside you? Even if it's scared? Or do they super tug on the leash ready to dash away? (if they dash refer to Chapter 4)

FOOD and WATER: If your dog doesn't drink, eat or go potty those are life dependent behaviors that should get resolved as soon as you can. Try soft food or hot dogs. Place water in all places, sometimes best to crate the dog with a water dish and walk away. Eventually they'll calm down and drink water if necessary. OR they'll learn where the water dish is and drink when you fall asleep and all the lights are off when "the coast is clear."

GOING TO THE BATHROOM: Getting a shy dog to go potty is another beast. The first thing I try is a super long leash, one you usually put on a hook in the ground (but I just hold onto the end and let them walk.) Remember, NEVER leave a shy dog alone! First you want to create a bond and you can't bond if you're not there. 2nd, they WILL scale fences!

If they walk on a leash, go for a LONG walk. Eventually they'll have to go right? 

Sometimes dogs have never seen winter. Yes our rescue's dogs all come from Alabama to Wisconsin, it's very common they are confused with snow. Just shovel a patch of snow at the edge of the yard exposing some grass and be patient. Sometimes they're so cold they'll go right on the driveway.

If all else fails....crate or gate in a carpet-less room when you leave because it MAY happen when you're gone. It's not ideal, but it happens. After accidents, always walk the dog outside and say "potty" so they know it goes outside. Don't let them watch you clean it up. It may just take a couple days or a week to get them used to the yard or grass and eventually they WILL go. 

KEY POINT: WHEN THEY GO.....Give SUPER DUPER amounts of praise. Whether it be 100 "good boy/girl!!", lots of mini treats, lots of petting and hugs and kisses

COMFORT ITEMS: If your new dog finds a spot or bed or area they like to lay. Start introducing yourself in that area and petting them sitting next to them. If it's a doggy bed, then take the doggy bed where ever you want to introduce them to (ie kitchen, living room, bedroom, etc). They've already made a positive association, roll with it! Make sure comfort items don't turn into possessive aggression, if so take it away and don't give it back.

If you have a puppy mill dog and you have other dogs it's best to show love and affection to the other dogs in front of the puppy mill dog so they can observe that it's okay to be around THIS human. If you only have the dog you adopted or bought, then it will be patience and time. Every time they show interest or walk up to you be excited and praise or give treats. All dogs want affection, sometimes it's too scary to show it. :(

GETTING ALONG WITH HUMANS: No matter size or gender there are general rules to approach a shy dog.

1. Don't be loud and no quick movements (hence families with young children should be careful)
2. Try to approach from the side of the dog (head on is threatening in dog world) 
3. Get down to their level be it squatting or on your knees or even laying down
4. Let them sniff your hand
5. Start VERY gentle by letting the hand at the muzzle and slowly move along the top or side of their face. If they move their head into your hand, let it flow naturally where they rub against your hand
6. Slowly work your way to the body.
7. BEWARE of the backside or the bottom, dogs who are shy or new to you may suddenly be very scared when you reach their backside. (whine, pull away, low light growl)

LEASHES: Some dogs are just scared of the leash. It's been too traumatizing whatever experience they have had. Try leaving a leash hooked on their collar (once you've managed to finagle it on) and let them walk around the house with it until they get use to it. Hand out treats when putting on the leash for positive association. 

Chapter 1: You Never Forget Your First

Casper, my 2nd foster dog but my first shy dog. He came from Alabama frighten to death with a brother who died from Parvo. It was also my first Wheaton terrier/lab mix. I know people love the wheatons, but Casper was the ULTIMATE mix. He didn't have the awkward look of a wheaton, but looked like a lab with the cotton soft wheaton fur. I admit it....he was a great pillow once we got to the point of our relationship where he allowed us to cuddle.

Casper's first night under our book shelf in our living room

Casper was an all white good size pup. Our first interaction was bring my husband to a farm where he was at the time and trying to drag him by leash into our car on a wet rainy night. Our first night with him consisted of him finding every crevasse and corner he could hide from the world.  Any attempt to grab him made him burrow in deeper like a hermit crab.

One special place he learned  to burrow was underneath our low to the ground Ikea bed which our Sheltie loved laying because he fit just right. Casper though, was a tight squeeze, more like he didn't fit at all, but he sure darn tried. Eventually we bought 4x4s and boards up all four sides of our bedframe so he had nowhere to go. We also bought doggy gates and gated him into the rooms we were in at all times. He was not allowed to be in the bedroom if we were in the living room. He was gated with all other doors shut if I was cooking dinner in the kitchen. It was the only way I could teach him relevance and understanding he had nothing to be scared about and it was okay to be in all spaces because it was just as much his space as ours. He may have been in the corner of the living room, or under he kitchen table, but he was in the same space. It was a start.

Step 2: Now that he knew the apartment, and couldn't get under our bed and hide for the rest of his life, it was time for Phase 2. We dug him out of corners and made him sit on the floor by us, or the couch next to us. We'd cuddle and pet him so he learned loving affection. That the hand is not a weapon. 

Step 3: Just love him to death after he realizes he never wants to leave your side. Eventually he was even off leash. He'd go potty in one spot in our yard and run right back to the door. The next thing you know he was jumping in our bed trying to cuddle with us. It was easier the nights my husband worked 3rd, Casper could actually FIT on the bed. 

FUREVER HOME: Casper was adopted by a wonderful lady who had and loved Wheaton Terriers growing up but couldn't find it in her heart to buy from a breeder or pet store (bless her heart)!!! So she adopted from a rescue! I told her all the good and the bad and how she'd have to work with him slowly and she was more than ever patient and excited. Now Casper is with his mom, graduated obedience school and running a farm alongside horses and always riding in mom's truck everywhere she goes. 

You never forget your first and I tell ya, when he left that night he kept tugging on that leash looking back at me....I just kept telling him "it's okay. You're going to be so loved." I held it altogether until I got upstairs and my husband hugged me and I just broke into tears "he must think I am mad, I hope he understands how much we love him." 

And so began my journey into working with more behaviorally stunted pups who just wants a chance to discover love!!